Automatic shifter breaking ?

[Sometimes1needhelp2]

Hello and happy 4th. My question is I had a 1999 Ford Explorer and I was putting it in reverse and right as I hit reverse the reverse gear broke loose so how do I keep this from happening to my Ford Fiesta ? They are both automatics and not manuals or aka stick shifts. Thanks for all of your answers and help I also already know that corrosion and rust had played a major roll in this.

 

[Handy Andy]

You'll find the Ford Fiesta is a little better at handling such "quik shift" mistakes, the Fiesta Focus and Fusion models have a modified transmission that uses the Brake more for many reasons - not just shifting but to improve fuel economy.

one main feature is that it does look (using speed sensors) when you shift, the TCM control waits for the vehicle to come to specific conditions before something drastic that can damage the transmission or hurt someone - occurs.

In your instance, if you're in PARK and you shift into reverse - the Brakes need to be applied to even get it out of gear, another would be when coming to a stop and then backing up - the system uses those speed sensors to determine when to change the gear - it has to sense near or at stop condition before it will let you shift from drive to reverse - even if the shifter is in reverse.

In some specific conditions your best friend is the hand brake (parking or Emergency brake) - in any vehicle.

 

[Sometimes1needhelp2]

So I do not have to worry about to much corrosion or rust trying to break my gears to my 2013 SE Ford Fiesta ? Because you cannot clean your gears free of corrosion, correct ? Thanks and take care and stay safe.

 

[Handy Andy]

The transmission is sealed, the bell housing though, is not - the TYPE of transmission in the FIESTA if standard Automatic there you see in the Instrument cluster

PRNDL

versus

PRNDS

So, you need to know what kind of transmission - so you don't make similar mistakes.

The latter one is considered problematic if not repaired or reprogrammed to shift properly.

 

[Sometimes1needhelp2]

Maybe you can help with this last question as well, I had gotten into a car accident not long ago and the Woman had hit me on my driver's side door and that had caused that window to not work at all 3 windows work so right now I am thinking it has to do with wires from the switch panel to wherever those wires go but something broke inside the door panel or wires got smashed or something any idea it is not a fuse. Does each electric window have it's own motor ? Thanks and take care.

 

[Handy Andy]

Yes, its' a window regulator motor (the Regulator part is what usually breaks - jams the motor)

And usually it jumps its track - if it's rolled up all the way - be lucky, many don't "stay up".

The track uses nylon or cable strip - that is how the motor - its' gear is designed to mesh it's teeth to the gear and pulley on the windows "sliding scissor" that raises and lowers the window and provides the torque to lift it and if the window were to jam due to a foreign object, that motor has a controller inside it - like a breaker, that trips and forces the window to go the opposite way if it can - it's this action that usually jams the motor and the track / nylon or cable strip used to pull against that scissor jack - that freezes in place because the strip broke.

WLRA-325
​

 

[Sometimes1needhelp2]

So would this also affect my driver's and passenger side electric mirrors ? Because now my mirrors won't adjust electronically. These are all of my questions so far thank you for your time you have been a major help and a major time savor.

 

[Handy Andy]

There is a "connector" that is part of the main Mirror wiring harness to the main harness for all the windows on the Drivers Side door - it ties all together into the main one that exits into the car thru a weather-resistant boot - both the switches for Windows, and the Right and Left Mirror control and that little speaker and the big one below in the door by the kick panel.

The Mirror control is
CA6Z-17B676-A

Looks like this...


note - there are two spring tabs - So you can pry it out of the door panel as needed to look for and to get at the connector - you might just want to pull the door panel off completely so you can obtain access to all the wiring.

A better way to go is to remove that whole door panel - the handle that you pull on - has a press to fit trim cover and a simple prying off reveals screws that mount to the panel frame - it's a good start to work with those and you'll also see how the window switch assembly is also "spring tabbed" in place.

There are also two screws that mount from the BOTTOM side panel on the part of the door that swings out - on the door frame that contains screws holding the panel in place towards the latch.

You'll need to do this trim removal anyways to inspect or expect - any sort or repair advice on what needs to be done next.

 

[Sometimes1needhelp2]

Then I just need to replace the drivers side power window motor or the other side the regulator ok I swear to you this my last question I very much promise have a great year.

 

[Sometimes1needhelp2]

So is this even the right switch panel the reason I ask is the 3 window switches that do work they make a clicking sound like they are making good contact the drivers side button does not make a clicking sound at all this would be the 2nd power window switch panel when they ordered the 1st switch panel they had to send it back because it was wrong and I have a real strong feeling that my issue is in this switch panel they are being sent the wrong kind or they are ordering the wrong I mean why would the driver's power window switch not make a clicking sound could this still be an issue with the motor because all other 3 make a clicking sound then windows go down and up, up and down.

 

[Sometimes1needhelp2]

So yeah I believe you are right it sounds like the regulator needs replacing.

 

[Sometimes1needhelp2]

So how would I go about replacing the wiring for the regulator and the motor to the switch panel ? Thanks.

 

[Handy Andy]

Well, this is the realm of having to find the answers with help - not the on-line kind, but the in-person kind, to help to show or describe how to - but to help you get started you can review several on-line YT vids about the interior trim and how to remove and install - then you decide how to approach this problem because you will do better with an extra helping you.

 

[Sometimes1needhelp2]

So I do not have to worry about to much corrosion or rust trying to break my gears to my 2013 SE Ford Fiesta ? Because you cannot clean your gears free of corrosion, correct ? Thanks and take care and stay safe.

I had a 99 Ford Explorer I had driven it for a good 2 years but it was beginning to get into bad shape because I didn't take care of it as well as I could have or should have but 1 day I was just about to garage it back into a my garage when just as I was putting the automatic shifter into reverse the R for reverse gear had broken off lol how or would this happen and it would not happen to my 2013 SE Ford Fiesta ? Thanks.

 

[Handy Andy]

A Ford Explorer is a different class of vehicle - mainly it's one of those "brute force SUV" you did things with it.

So, looking at a 2013 Ford Fiesta - everything will rust (corrode or oxidize) if you don't take care of it.

But the Fiesta has a lot of things that are nooks and crannies that - if not found and checked - you can develop problems with.

I presume you have an automatic, that system uses cables to select - and electrically communicate - to your cars transmission.

You just have to keep road debris and leaves, small critters and things that would otherwise block airflow to cool the transmission.

The Cable system uses grommets and bushings for selector control and wiring for gear downshift and upshift and very little is left for the owner to mess with or think about.

Don't have the Auto? Ok - Manual then puts you more in the drivers seat...

So with you and your shifter, the Fiesta uses an Twin Cable system hooked up in a way to form a X - Y axis and the shift pattern is as you run thru the gears, one axis selects the Up and Down - the other axis selects the 1,2 or 3,4 or 5 / R "forks" that you guide the knob thru to which the lever (the stick) it's hooked up to, moves the X - Y cables and you select your gear using this system.

So to help - the "forks" push your gears onto and off of a shaft - so think of this as the "Y" Up or Down - Push or Pull - Pull then Push (the other gear on that fork) then you shift a small amount to the right -

If you take your console apart - you'll see how the stick shifter is mounted, into what looks like a cue billiards ball and the X / Y cables string out from its mount or cradle.

Then the rest of the hard stuff is then the clutch and the throttle and brake

The automatic uses a similar system, but it's controlled thru servos, or actuators - they figure out the hard stuff - you just send input "electrically" to it - Throttle Brake and Shifter select-gear and any other "buttons" on the knob to help with drivability and in some instances - gear selection. Getting out of Park is one of them

 

[Sometimes1needhelp2]

A Ford Explorer is a different class of vehicle - mainly it's one of those "brute force SUV" you did things with it.

So, looking at a 2013 Ford Fiesta - everything will rust (corrode or oxidize) if you don't take care of it.

But the Fiesta has a lot of things that are nooks and crannies that - if not found and checked - you can develop problems with.

I presume you have an automatic, that system uses cables to select - and electrically communicate - to your cars transmission.

You just have to keep road debris and leaves, small critters and things that would otherwise block airflow to cool the transmission.

The Cable system uses grommets and bushings for selector control and wiring for gear downshift and upshift and very little is left for the owner to mess with or think about.

Don't have the Auto? Ok - Manual then puts you more in the drivers seat...

So with you and your shifter, the Fiesta uses an Twin Cable system hooked up in a way to form a X - Y axis and the shift pattern is as you run thru the gears, one axis selects the Up and Down - the other axis selects the 1,2 or 3,4 or 5 / R "forks" that you guide the knob thru to which the lever (the stick) it's hooked up to, moves the X - Y cables and you select your gear using this system.

So to help - the "forks" push your gears onto and off of a shaft - so think of this as the "Y" Up or Down - Push or Pull - Pull then Push (the other gear on that fork) then you shift a small amount to the right -

If you take your console apart - you'll see how the stick shifter is mounted, into what looks like a cue billiards ball and the X / Y cables string out from its mount or cradle.

Then the rest of the hard stuff is then the clutch and the throttle and brake

The automatic uses a similar system, but it's controlled thru servos, or actuators - they figure out the hard stuff - you just send input "electrically" to it - Throttle Brake and Shifter select-gear and any other "buttons" on the knob to help with drivability and in some instances - gear selection. Getting out of Park is one of them

Correct I have the automatic.